Step 9: Putting it All Together

Finishing the Job

The framing job is almost finished. First, make sure the glass is clean, and put it in the frame. Next, test the mounting board/matting board/artwork package to see if it fits. If the mounting board and matting boards didn't line up perfectly, then this bundle may be a little too big to fit in the groove in the back of the frame. As long as the windows line up perfectly, that's all that matters. We can trim the edges to make it fit.

Testing the fit

If it turns out that you do indeed need to trim, then put the whole thing in your mat cutting guide, and use the straight cutter (with the blade at maximum extension to make sure you cut through everything) to trim the edges flush. Take off just a little at a time, test fitting between cuts to see how much more needs to be trimmed, and from what edge. Sometimes, if I just need to trim a little bit, I make the cut with a pair of scissors, since the edge will be hidden by the flange of the frame.

Once everything fits into the frame, you need to secure it in place. Again, there are several ways to do this. You can buy a box of "glazing points" from the hardware store and push them into the back of the frame (flush with the back of the mounting board) with a hammer and screwdriver. Or you could use small brads and press them into the frame (again, flush with the back of the mounting board).

Securing everything inside the frame

The easiest and most professional way to secure everything into the frame, however, is to use a point driving tool. This tool looks like a staple-gun, but shoots small metal darts out the front of its nose (instead of straight down, like a staple-gun would). The one I use is called a Fletcher FrameMaster point driver. They cost around $80, so are a little pricey, but they do a fantastic job and will save you lots of headaches.

Frame after securing contents inside

Next: Attaching a Dust Seal.